The rear disc installation naturally begins with removal of the stock brakes.  Get the car safely up on jack stands allowing  yourself plenty of room to work comfortably.  After pulling the brake drums (a few taps with a hammer will free them up), you will note that the entire brake assembly can be removed by pulling four bolts.  It was time to pull the stock axle shafts first.  Begin by loosening the rear end cover bolts.  Do not remove them entirely or even break the cover seal until they are all loose. Position a suitable drain pan under the rear end pumpkin.  I then loosen the bottom four cover bolts almost completely and then gently pried the cover loose until the old axle lube began to drain.  Take a break here while letting it sit to drain out well.  After it drains, pop the cover off and pull the lock bolt and c-clips.  Carefully pull each axle out on either side.  I removed the four bolts without disconnecting the parking brake line.  I pulled the brake assembly intact and laid it under the car until disconnecting the ebrake cable at the T found under the parking brake lever in the trans tunnel.  Once the cables are freed from the chassis, you can slide the whole set from under the car and say good-bye to the stock rear drum brakes.  Next, I removed the stock hard lines, tee and soft line from the axle.  The kit comes with all new lines and brackets.  Before attempting to install the new lines, I laid everything out as it appeared to best fit on the car.  The reason for this is all the lines and other loose hardware are not marked and nothing more than a simple puzzle.  I installed the new standoff and tee followed by the lines that run along the axle.  The soft lines that bridge between the caliper and axle are supplied with a bracket assembly which requires you to drill two holes in each LCA mount above the shock mounting point.  One hole is for the #40 torx chassis mount bolt and the other is for a metal locating tang on the bracket.  I found it necessary to remove the shock at the lower mount. I took pressure off the shock by placing a jack under the pumpkin and raising it a little.  Then I compressed the shock by hand and zip tied it up out of the way. I could then get my drill in a good position.  Next, I merely laid the bracket in the desired location and marked my drill points.  I drilled the holes, installed the brackets/lines and tightened everything up.  If you take your time in replacing and fitting up these lines, the resulting fit and finish will be well worth the effort in final fit and finish.  

At this point, it is time to install the new axles, caliper brackets, rotors and calipers.  But before doing so, you may wish to spend an extra $5 and replace the axle shaft seals.  I felt that while the existing seals looked fine, now would be a good time to replace them as the originals had 95,000 miles on them.  I reasoned that for the time and cost involved, it would be a shame to have to pull everything apart a month or two down the road should one of the old seals go south.  Install the new axle shafts and reassemble the rear c-clips and axle cover (torque to 25-35 lb ft).  I have always preferred to use quality RTV instead of a gasket to seal the axle cover.  Refill the pumpkin with gear oil and do not forget to add friction modifier.

Now it is time to see the rear brakes come together.  I decided to paint the caliper mounting brackets as one was received bare, and the other was painted on one side only.  This is not necessary, but makes the difference in the final finish.  To mount the brackets, you can use the original hardware.  I opted to use the bolts, but replaced the nuts with a set that had nylon inserts.  For only a buck and a little lock-tite, I know those brackets are not going to come loose or shift down the road.  Be sure to apply the recommended torque to the bracket bolts.  This is a good time to loosely fit the anti-moan brackets that are attached at the axle via a U bolt which passes under the quad-shock mount.  At the caliper bracket, they share the caliper mounting bolts as an anchor.  I only hand tightened these brackets as final torque down should come after the calipers are installed.  Next, install the dust shields.  We had to buy the correct 6mm fine threaded hex bolts and washers as I found none with the kit (the ones sent were totally different in thread pattern).  The shields fit on the outside face of the caliper bracket. (Some kits such as SSB rear set-up have them on the inside face of the bracket).  You will not be able to install the shields easily if the rotors are in place (voice of experience speaking).  Now carefully install the new rotors paying attention not to get them dirty or covered with greasy finger prints.  I sprayed the rotors down with brake cleaner and wiped them off to remove the oily film the factory applies to prevent rust.  Install a couple of standard lug nuts finger tight to hold the rotor steady as you mount the calipers.  New caliper mounting bolts were supplied with the kit.  Applying just a dab of lock-tite, torque the caliper bolts to 70-95 lb ft.  With the exception of the ebrake cables, the rear brakes are finished.
 

Ebrake Handle and Cables

The parking brake handle requires modification to defeat the self adjusting mechanism.  First remove the handle from the car by removing the shifter bezel and the armrest if so equipped.  You will then be able to see 4 screws (two at the front and two at the rear) that hold the upper console to the lower console.   Once the screws are removed, carefully lift up on the upper console so that it's possible to disconnect the wires to the power mirrors and to the cigarette lighter.   Once the upper console has been removed, you will see that the parking brake handle is held on by two screws to the floor.  You must first disconnect the parking brake cable before removing the handle.  Since the spring holds tension on the cable, you will have to overcome this by physically turning the spring.  Be Careful!!  The spring is tight but not too tight.  If the spring pops back, make sure your fingers are no where near it.  This along with the power brake booster will probably be one of the toughest tasks in this kit only because you are stuck in a car with very poor seating position.  Once the spring is disconnected, remove the screw that holds the parking brake indicator switch and the two bolts holding the parking brake to the floor.  You will now have to remove the small section of parking brake cable that holds the equalizer on from the bottom.

The parking brake handle must be modified by (1) cutting the end of the adjusting spring off, (2) welding the adjuster to the handle itself and (3) cutting the end of the adjuster so that the parking brake handle will sit all the way to the normal position once it is back in the vehicle.  One can see the 3 modifications necessary as diagrammed in the photo.   You will have to weld the pawl to the handle with the second from the last tooth engaged (a simple tack weld will work just fine).  The end of the spring will also have to be removed and I recommend doing it with a cutoff wheel or a torch because the metal is tough.  In this installation, I went ahead and cut the entire spring off to save me from a foreseen rattling of a loose spring, but it is not necessary.  If you choose to remove the entire spring via torch, remember that the end of the handle is plastic (or leather if your lucky) and it can melt very easily.  The final step that is not mentioned in the instructions is to remove the overlapping metal on the pawl.  In it's original form, the handle would lift the pawl when released but since we have now welded the pawl to the handle, the overlapping metal now will not let the handle sit all the way down.  Cut it with the torch while you have it out.  I had a muffler shop do the work for me and they charged me $5.00 so don't struggle with simple tools if you do not have a torch and/or welding equipment.

Next step is to modify the equalizer where the parking brake cable connects to the rear cables.  You need to first remove it from the vehicle from underneath.  There is a rubber boot that keeps water out of the interior of the car so care should be taken not to rip the little boot as I did.  Once the equalizer and cable are out, you will need to cut the end that hooked into the parking brake handle off so that the cable can be separated from the equalizer.  The old cable can be discarded as it will no longer be used.  You will need to enlarge the hole that the cable ran through to 11/32" so that the new threaded adjuster will fit through the hole.  The equalizer and the new adjuster should now be finished.

Once the modifications to the parking brake handle have been completed, you can now install the new cable onto the handle.  Care must be taken to fit the cable to avoid putting a kink in it, take your time!  I highly suggest doing this before installing the parking brake handle since you will have an easier time maneuvering the handle to where you need it to be.  Once it has been installed, reinstall the handle, making sure the threaded end of the adjuster goes through the rubber boot and to the outside of the car.  Reinstall the parking brake warning light switch and the two screws that hold the handle to the floor.  Now reinstall the rest of the console in reverse order of removal.

The M2300K kit comes with two sets of parking brake cables.  One set is for 1993 cars and carries a standard Ford part number, while the other set is sourced through FRPP and fits the earlier model cars.  In this installation, we used the FMS cable set.  From underneath the car you can now thread the brake cables following the factory positioning.  The result will be two parking brake cables coming together at the equalizer.  You can now engage the two cables and insert the threaded end into the equalizer and tighten down the adjusting nuts as shown in the photo.  It may be necessary to remove the drive shaft (especially if you have the 3.5" aluminum variety) to be able work comfortably as the cables all come together in the transmission tunnel above the drive shaft.  Since the cables are new, adjustment may be difficult at first.  However, you need to periodically readjust the cables as necessary during the first couple of weeks because the new cables will stretch.

Finally, you should tie down the parking brake cables using suitable clamps.  This will prevent the cables from rubbing on the tires and/or getting hung up on any road hazards that may come up.  The 2300 kit includes a set of springs for this purpose.  In this installation, I did not to use the supplied springs since the car no longer had the stock control arms and hence no where to hook the springs to.  Instead, I got a set of 1/4" rubber insulated clamps.  I then used the factory mounting points to attach the clamps to the under carriage.  This method of attachment turned out very well.  It allow me to move the cables into the best position without causing binding problems.  It also resulted in plenty of tire clearance for the 245 Nitto DR's.

The brake kit includes new spindles from a 94/95 Mustang in order to accommodate the new twin piston calipers.  The first thing that needs to be done is to support the lower control arm with a suitable floor jack to keep from having to remove the front coil spring.  The tie rod end and two strut bolts that mount the strut to the spindle must be removed.  Remove the lower ball joint nut and disconnect the spindle from the ball joint and strut assembly.

The kit comes with a dust shield that mounts to the spindle via 1/4" rivets.  Not many people have such a large rivet gun on hand (including myself) so I had to head down to a local body shop to have the shields riveted to the spindles.   For those without easy access to someone with a rivet gun of this size, 1/4" nuts and bolts can be used in place of the rivets so long as the length is checked so that they will not interfere with the rotor.  Once you decide on the road you will travel, you can install the new spindle on to the lower ball joint and install the spacer and retaining nut (torque the nut to 110-115 lb ft).  The newer Mustangs come with struts that have a longer travel.   During the course of normal driving, running fox struts will not pose a problem but it does pose a problem when trying to reinstall the strut to the new spindle.  You need to raise the jack that is under the control arm carefully until the new bolts that come with the kit can be installed once the spindle and strut holes align.  Tighten the bolts to 140-200 lb ft.  The tie rod end needs to be attached to the new spindle and you will notice that the car will have a severe amount of toe in.  You will need to adjust the tie rod end out by eye to bring the spindle back into alignment as close as possible.  Once you have finished the installation, you will need to have the alignment done by a professional shop to your cars specs as they vary by year.

Once the spindles are secure and installed, you can now install the hubs.  This design is sealed and is already prepacked with the proper amount of grease.  If your hub requires replacement down the road, you will need to service the hub as a unit.   Replacements are available for under $40 and usually last 10 years so rest easy.   There is a huge 23mm nut that retains the hub to the spindle that needs to be torqued to 190-250 lb ft so find a torque wrench before hand that can go that high.   Don't guess on this figure, this nut basically holds the wheel to the spindle, it's important.  Once the nut is torqued to specs, you can install the new dust cap that comes in the kit.

With all the previous items complete, you can now install the 13" rotors on the hubs and use an old lug nut to retain the rotor to the hub to aid in the installation of the calipers.  You can now use some lacquer thinner or brake cleaner to clean any oils off the new rotors prior to installing the calipers. 

Caliper installation is fairly easy and is retained by two bolts (torque to 70-95 lb ft).  Attach the flexible brake line with the new banjo bolts and torque to 30-40 lb ft.  Brake bleeding is much easier with the wheels removed so now would be a good time to bleed the system after bleeding the rear brakes first.  Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and end with the one closest to the master cylinder.   I highly recommend using a power brake bleeder using compressed air.  It took me 15 minutes to completely bleed the entire system.  I have no doubt that bleeding the system by hand would have taken at least an hour with 2 people.  Once your system is bled of air, pump the pressure of the brake system up by pushing on the pedal repeatedly and hold while someone else goes around looking for any leaks.  If you are satisfied with the bleeding, reinstall the wheel and torque the lugs to 85-105 lb ft in a star pattern.  These rotors are notorious for warping if not torqued in sequenced or over torqued via an impact wrench.